King Suryavarman-II of the Khmer Empire
climbed the steps and looked at the marvel of his creation. The Sun had not yet
risen and the shadows of the Angkor Wat Temple looked awesome against the dark
backdrop. Suryavarman-II took a deep breath and the pure cool air filled his
lungs. He waited as the Sun broke out and the glory of Angkor Wat exploded in
all its might as Sun’s rays lit up the majestic art work that had been created
over 03 decades. Over 5 million tons of building material had been used to arch
out the Angkor Wat. It was the tribute of Suryavarman-II to his Lord Vishnu.
Suryavarman-II
was all of 23 and a powerful young man when he snatched power by killing his
great uncle, Dharanindravarman I, while he was riding an elephant. An
inscription says that Suryavarman killed the man “as Garuda [a mythical bird] on a mountain ledge would kill a serpent.”
Suryavarman-II was destined to rule with wars and battles littered all around.
He successfully built up the Khmer Empire over a large territory and the empire
prospered. Suryavarman-II defeated rival claimants to the throne and
established sole rule over Cambodia by 1113, reuniting the country after
more than 50 years of unrest. Warlike and ambitious, he expanded the limits of
Cambodia to include much of what is now Thailand; his patronage stretched as far west
as the frontiers of the Burmese state of Pagan, south to the coast of the Gulf
of Thailand (including part of the eastern coast of the Malay Peninsula), and
east to the kingdom of Champa in the
southern part of what is now Vietnam.
He
venerated Lord Vishnu, a deity often depicted as a protector, and installed a
statue of the God in Angkor Wat’s central tower. This devotion can also be seen
in one of the most remarkable reliefs at Angkor Wat, located in the southeast
of the temple. The relief shows a chapter in the Hindu story of creation known
as the “churning of the sea of milk.”
In
today’s Cambodia, Johnan Soklang Chea and Sophear M Sreat are two of many enterprising
women folk. They both have overcome many hurdles in their respective lives and
proudly lead their own organizations and work commonly with Cambodian Women Entrepreneurs
Association. They both represent vibrancy, hard work and a zeal to excel. They
are out there to create a legacy carved out of their respective lives.
As
Suryavarman-II walked towards his marvel using the main entrance from the west
(a direction associated with Vishnu) across a stone causeway, with guardian
lions marking the way, he knew that his end was near. He had ruled for almost
37 years and knew that this would be his resting place as yet gain the upheavals
in the Khmer Empire’s boundaries had begun to redraw the boundaries. The temple
still had many works to do, but Suryavarman-II would not see its completion.
In 1150 Suryavarman died in the
midst of a new campaign against Champa (present day South- West Vietnam),
leaving his people exhausted by war and victimized by the once-subservient
Chams, who eventually ravaged Angkor. He was (probably) buried inside the
marvel that he had created-The Angkor Wat.
Welcome
to today’s Siem Reap, a Cambodian city located 7.5 Kms from Angkor Wat. The
city where the Angkor temple was built and was once the capital of the Khmer
Empire. This city contains hundreds of temples. Its population once may
have been over 1 million people. It was easily the largest city in the world until
the Industrial Revolution. A busy tourist destination today, Siem Reap, mingles
various nationalities into its tiny fold and provides a neat arrangement for
the lost humanity. The Pub Street hosts the action for the winding down
tourists catching up on traces of ancient human civilization. The bustling
market, neat hotels and the night bazaar wind down late into the night as the
music, the Apsara Dance shows and revelry of the Pub Street usurps the
tourists. The cuisine delights includes animal lives of many form and shapes
and is coupled with relaxing massage parlors where the tired bones are creaked
out for nuts.
Early
in the morning, the sea of varied humanity gathers in front of the Angkor Wat’s
main entrance and waits with baited breath as the Sun pitches in to take its
various positions. The temple domes stand out in the Sun and the dull grey
structure tells its glorious past to the mesmerized tourists. The atmosphere
around the temple has a chill effect till the mighty Sun takes over with its
warmth toning up the Angkor’s stones. Angkor Wat is surrounded by a
650-foot-wide (200 m) moat that encompasses a perimeter of more than 3 miles (5
km). This moat is 13 feet deep (4 m) and would have been designed to stabilize
the temple’s foundation, preventing groundwater from rising too high or falling
too low. Building Angkor Wat was an enormous undertaking that involved
quarrying, careful artistic work and lots of digging. To create the moat around
the temple, 1.5 million cubic meters (53 million cubic feet) of sand and silt
were moved, a task that would have required thousands of people working at one
time.
The
buildings at Angkor Wat posed their own challenges. To support them a tough
material called laterite was used, which in turn was encased with softer
sandstone that was used for carving the reliefs. These sandstone blocks were
quarried at the Kulen Hills, about 18 miles (30 km) to the north. Recent research proves that
they were transported to the site by a series of canals. The sea of humanity
moves inside the temple complex as the Sun breaks out and the high walls of the
premises poses a question to each visitor, “How must this Temple have been
built?” The steep stairs challenge today’s humans and the dull grey center
tower presents a majestic look as bewildered tourists queue up to climb its
steep staircase. The climb clearly indicates that reaching the abode of God is
not easy, one has to work hard for it.
The
ruins of civilization near Angkor Wat are magnificent. In its prime, this
civilization was much advanced and would have stayed in most pristine
environment. The system of canals would have brought in great prosperity and
the powerful Khmer Kingdom under Suryavarman-II would have thrived with busy
humans. In its complete glory, the temples of Angkor city would have had hues
of bright shades and imaginations runs amok as one visualizes the technological
challenges those humans surmounted.
A
swift stroke from Suryavarman-II would have been the result of years of practice
of martial arts. With that one stroke, he captured the power and along with his
priest Diwakarpandita crafted a brand new history. Alas, very few humans live
to see the complete glory of their visualizations. Indeed, it is not possible
also as the humans are designed to think. Many who achieve something are always
looking forward and thus it is difficult to see the culmination of their
dreams. An Angkor Wat today with all available technologies may not be possible
in the time that it took Suryavarman-II to almost build his dream. He and his
team were designers and planners of great qualifications and their project
management techniques were amazing.
The
modern Cambodia is a treat for the Lonely Planet. The shades of history have
not been very kind to this country but the picture emerging out today is a saga
of human fight back. The country seems bustling and moving to capture the lost
times. The fighting spirit is littered all across the country and the northward
trends are clearly visible. Today’s Cambodia is epitomized by its young generation
which is building up a dream for a better tomorrow. Neat and tidy environment
coupled with smooth discipline adds up to the comfort of the humans. A festive
spirit erupts every evening when humanity gathers around the majestic conglomeration
of rivers Tonle Sap, Mekong and Bassac. The day winds down with happiness even
as the new morning beckons.
A
vibrant Cambodia awaits tourists with options of great tourism and connect with
lost civilization. Vibrant Johnan Soklang Chea and Sophear M Sreat are shining
examples of the fighting Cambodian spirit which is bound to touch humanity.
Enterprise management is a skilled path which many fear to tread. Johnan,
Sophear and many more of their ilk have decided to walk the talk with élan,
grace and honor. The legacy of Suryavarman-II is dull grey today, but, it has
withstood the rigors of times and stands tall within the ruins. Angkor Wat may
have lost its colors (which today’s world can only imagine) but Cambodians of
today are building the country to its original vibrancy. Angkor remains the
fabled backdrop of Cambodia and its young generation knows the path to new
vigor and glory.
We
discovered only about 20 % of what Cambodia offers to the tourists and looking
forward to the next trip.
All
the best if you decide to visit Cambodia and discover this glorious part of the
Lonely Planet.
