Travelogue McLeodganj

James Bruce, 8th Earl of Elgin and 12th Earl of Kincardine, KT, GCB, PC had arrived as the Viceroy of India in 1862 after having served in Jamaica, Canada and China. He was educated at Eton and Christ Church, Oxford, and became one of a brilliant group of Eton and Christ Church graduates, many of whom were later associated in politics and the colonial service. Bruce studied intensively, so much so that he injured his health and had to fore-go a double first for a mere first. Nevertheless he left Oxford not only widely read in classics but having “mastered” on his own, so his brother recorded, the philosophy of Samuel Taylor Coleridge. The latter, with its stress on the organic nature of society in which the members and interests are dependent on one another, was a suggestive and intriguing acquisition for a young man who was to lead, with the ready address and genial charm already apparent at Oxford, fragmented and unformed societies towards a new coherence in self-government.

The first of the activities that James Bruce undertook on arrival to India was to use Peterhoff, Shimla as the official residence of the Viceroy. James was a mild mannered Viceroy who ventured deep into the Society to manage his official affairs. This of course left him a lot exhausted in the course of his duty. Something similar is experienced by every motorist as he/she tries to get out of New Delhi on any direction. I underwent the same predicament as I got up with a bad feeling at 0430 hrs on 14 Oct 13. I had planned a round of Golf and start of a drive to Chandigarh by 1000 hrs. However, the stomach cramps did not permit the game. By 0800 hrs I was feeling a bit feverish , but factoring the readiness of mind and a view of the Dhauladhar Ranges, I pushed the car (Swift D'zire) out of New Delhi.

Delhi is growing at a mad pace and is gulping anything that comes in its way. The town planners in India probably are still in 1970s as far as their planning skills go. Delhi roads are perpetually dug up either to create Ring Roads or the Metro or the Fly Overs. What one fails to understand is that why all such things and growth patterns cannot be predicted? However, I love my India. I turned on the GT Road by 1200 hrs and put the car into cruise control mode in the top most gear. This axis is a delight and in-spite of a building fever  and cramps, I was able to generate a good speed. The traffic was low and drive was fun. A pit stop at Karnal was an energy booster and I had a glass of Salted Lassi (CHHACHH). This gave me some energy but the fever was not coming down.

We reached Chandigarh at 1645 hrs and checked in with Pawan Datt Sir/Fox/78. The staff took good care of us. Due to bad fever, I had to fore-go a planned meeting with MK Agarwal Sir/Fox/15, Harender Maini Sir/Fox/33 and Satwant Singh Sir/Fox/48. This was a damp beginning to a well planned holiday. Satwant Sir visited us and in the evening Pawan Datt Sir ensured that some good medicine reached me. I slept fitfully with fever that night and had decided to turn back to New Delhi the next day. However,  a call from McLeodgunj changed it all.

 At Chandigarh, we were joined by the family of a fellow class mate and ex-NDA Sudhir Malik/Juliet/78*79. We all shifted into Sudhir's Innova and left our car at the Zirakpur Mess. The drive to Mc Leodgunj runs via Ropar, Anandpur Sahib, Kiratpur Sahib, Chintapurni, Kangra, Una and Dharamsala. The road is bad in patches but food on dhabas along the road is good and fresh. We had started from Zirakpur at 1045 hrs on 15 Oct and reached McLeodgunj at 1915 hours. I was feeling better with the fresh air from hills and some great view of the Dhauladhar Ranges just behind our stay point.

 The days at McLeodgunj were spent in roaming in the small town and trying all types of cuisines (I abstained) and enjoying the pleasant climate. The crowd was thin and the small lanes were not so busy. Visited the Water Falls, Dal Lake and Norbulinka Monastery apart from chatting with friends in company. A photographic link is enclosed for your perusal:-
 

https://plus.google.com/photos/101238588481972006061/albums/5936340942304251633?authkey=CMrf04Wpv4flaQ

In Nov 1863, James Bruce set out to understand the problems of the hills neighboring Simla. He arrived at River Chandra, on the lap between Kullu and Lahul. He loved to travel among the people. It was the same desire and capacity to understand the society in which he was to govern that had enabled him to assist in creating in Canada a locally acceptable government of moderates between the extremes of race, partisanship, and tradition. However, by now by virtues of his earlier stints, James Bruce was a tired man. He looked years older than his 52 years and 04 months. His wife Mary Louisa was worried about his health too. However, who could stop Bruce from doing what he liked the most- meet people. He was crossing the swinging rope and wood bridge over River Chandra. Suddenly, James Bruce felt a searing pain in his heart, collapsed and died midway between the bridge.

 The Viceroy had taken over India just after the 1857 mutiny and had to his credit the changes that he had brought in Jamaica, Canada and China. He had shown an unusual degree to which he sympathized with the Chinese he encountered and perceived the difficulties of a decadent empire that was most remarkable. He was bound to display some similar traits in India also. However, it was not to be and India remained away from James Bruce's imaginative mastery of his role, and the creative spirit in which he developed it. Countess of Elgin and Kincardine, Mary Louisa buried the Viceroy, James Bruce in the churchyard of St. John in the Wilderness in McLeodgunj, Dharamshala. 

 

McLeodgunj is a great holiday destination to cheer up the wobbled soul. The town offers a scenic beauty at an affordable cost and is a must see.

TRAVELOGUE PART-II- NAINI TAL & CORBETT (DAY-2 AT NAINI TAL)

           Day-2 at Naini Tal was utilized for relaxation. An early morning start of the day was done with a cup of hot brew whilst nature unfolded itself in front of us. The place HOME AWAY FROM HOME belonging to the SAPPER COLONEL KK DANGWAL, SM offers the most panoramic view of entire Naini Tal and the view is perfect.
              We ordered a breakfast of Aloo Paratha and Curd from a local eatery joint. Adding to the economy of such eateries is a good deed being done by the affable Colonel and the owner was all at sea to make us happy. A great round of relaxation followed and suddenly the mist moved in. The entire Naini Tal was taken over by the clouds and it poured and poured. After the stoppage of rain, we walked down about 500 meters to the Mall Road and picked up a lunch of Mutton Biryani. The only stuff I missed was the cans of beer which I had forgotten in the Innova and it was parked far away. Anyways, detoxification is always good and I am maintaining a Sea Daddy look in this trip.
             The climb of 500 meters back to the home at an angle of 35 odd degrees was fun and tested the mettle of fitness to its hilt. The heart pumped to its rated capacity and the hunger rose. The day was spent in leisure and I rounded it off by reading a book titled THE TEMPLE TIGER by JIM CORBETT. Incidentally, this place HOME AWAY FROM HOME has a beautiful library called PETER MAVERICK LIBRARY. Colonel Dangwal told me that this library has been donated by an American gentleman named Peter Maverick who has himself never been to this place. It seems Peter read about the good work being done by the Colonel and sent the entire lot of books on various topics covering Uttaranchal to the Colonel as a token of his appreciation!!! Some wonderful human gesture, I must say. The library has a vast range of books covering myriad topics about Uttaranchal.
             Jim Corbett has been one of the legends that I admire. His subtle writings have evoked a lot of interest into my travel plans of this area and I am keenly looking forward to do my next Travelogue on a route done by Jim when he shot the Temple Tiger who had of course turned into a Man Eater. This travel would take me through a scenic place called Muktesar and its villages. Wow, it would be great. With heroics of Jim Corbett still wringing in my mind , I called it a day late into a still night and amidst HOME AWAY FROM HOME. A series of photographs clicked is attached below:-

https://plus.google.com/photos/101238588481972006061/albums/5889223566968376929?authkey=CJyz8OPcmq_YRA

TRAVELOGUE PART-I- NAINI TAL & CORBETT (DAY-1 FROM NEW DELHI TO NAINI TAL)

           New Delhi woke up to a clouded morning on 13 Jun13. The weather was absolutely pleasant to start a journey. This is a rare journey where I am not behind the wheels. Our driver Rajender from COLORS OF INDIA TOURS & TRAVELS, owned by my ex-Submarine mate Mr Aman Saini (Mob- 09899131881) arrived sharp at 7.30 AM. The Toyota Innova was immaculately clean and fully loaded for a comfortable journey. The luggage was stowed up as on this trip we are 05 Adults, 02 Children and 02 infants!! The vehicle set off from Delhi at 9.30 AM and we left New Delhi via Navy Children School after securing the admission for our elder son Akshay.
              Any journey out of New Delhi is through bottle necks as Delhi continues to seam away far and wide and gobbles up small towns en-route. Keeping Akshar Dham Temple on our left , we criss crossed through a dense traffic zone at Ghaziabad and Kaushambi area. The road here is narrow and traffic is big. Making steady progress, we reached Hapur and crossed into the sugar town of Gajraula. This was the place where we took our first pit stop at a neat Bikanerwala. Bikanerwala is accompanied by outlets of Dominoes, KFC, Baskin Robbins and good ol' MacD. There are a few Punjabi Dhabas alongside and also various Factory Outlets. The lunch at Bikanerwala alongwith Mango Lassi was sumptuous and some quick take aways were also picked up from MacD.
            As the Innova sped along to Moradabad, we settled down with a DVD show of HIMMATWALA. I wondered the plight of people who had to endure this movie on a big screen!!! Meanwhile, we crossed Moradabad by-pass and reached Bilaspur. The 30 Km road from Bilaspur (Distt Ramnagar) to Haldwani was a torture as the road was bad . Maybe Jaya Prada (the local MP) has fallen out with SP and as her fortunes have dipped so has Rampur's. The Innova tossed and jolted to Haldwani. The 30 Km journey took almost 2 hours to complete.
          Nothing can beat the tiredness (and I get fatigued more if I am not driving) more than a hot cuppa. The pit stop was a Cafe Coffee Day outlet at Haldwani. The sugarless Black Coffee regained the vigor and josh and the climb to Naini Tal was started.
           En-route , there is a delicacy called SARDARJI KA MURGE KA ACHAR. Now, there are 3 shops claiming the name to fame and all the three ladies claimed to be the original wives of the original SARDARJI!!! Now, the Chief Protagonist- SARDARJI is no more other wise he would have a great time with the three wives and smelling of the oil and Murga. The pickle delicacy is oily and heavy on heart but who cares when you are climbing up the hills.
          We checked into a HOME AWAY FROM HOME belonging to a SAPPER COLONEL KIRAN KUMAR DANGWAL (Mob- 9411107798). The place has good basic facilities for a comfortable stay with the mountaineer Colonel who is always at hand to help his guests. A photographic trailer is attached below:-

https://plus.google.com/photos/101238588481972006061/albums/5889223566968376929?authkey=CJyz8OPcmq_YRA

Best regards.

Arun Jyoti 

TRAVELOGUE KUMARAKOM-2 (03 JAN-04 JAN 13)

               The mornings at Kumarakom are an absolute pleasure. The nature takes over the mankind and the bliss is eternal. We followed the mil regimen and got up early to make the best use of the early morning and sighted some beautiful birds along the Club Mahindra channel side. A few rounds of jog around the pool was felt essential to keep the flab of back-to-back holidays under control.

                  We decided to take a walk towards the main road which is about 700 meters from the Club. We came across a tender coconut stall and what a delight it turned out to be. After enjoying the sumptuous coconut water, we located a Fish Stall and bang opposite the fish stall was a small Dhaba. The owner of the Dhaba (located at Chakrampady Bus Stand) turned out to be a retired EME guy, Naik Satyan. Satyan was cordial and happy to meet another soldier. We ordered Malabar Parathas and Egg Curryfor packing. The breakfast at the Club was also well spread and we clubbed it with the Malabar parathas and egg curry.

                  In the afternoon, we decided to teach the children some angling. A fishing rod was crafted out of the wooden stick and a safety pin acted as the hook. The resort boasts of many a varieties of fish in and around the water bodies inside its campus. The children had a great time as the fish came very near and the hook never caught them!!! It was a good learning exercise.

                 In the evening we darted back to Satyan's Dhaba and handed him over the fish for making Karimeen. Satyam did a great job and also made a Duck delicacy for us. Well done Satyan, proud of you. The Karimeen with Fuel Vodka added with lime and Sprite added on to the evening's fun. Our neighbors in the Club also joined the party and it was time for Karaoke singing. CHAL CHALEN APNE GHAR HAMSAFAR by JAMES was the last number for the night of 03 Jan.

                 On 04th early morning, we set course for Kochi and linked up with AMIT SINHA/FOX/100 at his well decorated residence. Minal and Amit are a lovely couple and heading towards a foreign Staff Course in Mar 13. Hartiest congrats Amit and Minal and thanks for a great afternoon. Picking up some great Kerela Silk Sarees from PARTHA's, we made our way to Kochi International Airport for our late night AI047. The flight to Delhi was full and cramped as the sector is being serviced with Airbus A-320 in spite of being an almost 3+ hours flight. Hence, there is no in-flight entertainment and passengers become restless. The landing at Delhi was delayed and finally we touched down at 2330 hrs. The temperatures outside were in the range of 5 degrees and it was a cold and chilly welcome back to base.

              Attached below the photo link to the enitre trip:-

  https://plus.google.com/photos/101238588481972006061/albums/5828857439207757505?authkey=CJCF_JSuwa6faA

TRAVELOGUE KUMARAKOM-1 (31DEC 12-02 JAN 13)

"JHALLA KI LABDA PHIRE" is the latest from the throat nerves of RABBI SHERGILL , a good singer from up north. JHALLA can mean a MEANINGLESS WANDERER; KI means WHAT; LABDA means TO SEEK and PHIRE means TO ROAM. Something similar has been happening in my life too. The idea of back to back travels from New Delhi to Jaiselmer; back to New Delhi and then onwards to Kumarakom has been truly a part of the JHALLA mind-set. But believe you me dear Foxies, its worth it, at times, to just let your GPS take a tango and cruise to the hilts. Sometimes, I really wonder what the backpackers must be achieving in their lives and what we cannot even imagine. Chill....

        Catching one of the first Air India flights out of T-3 can be a good experience especially when the ground crew is groggy and the passengers who have woken up in the wee hours are groggier along with their infants and young ones. These scenes make you wonder what a tough nut you are with all those Bathroom Clearances trg at Fox Sqn. Many thanks Ajay Kaushik Sir/Fox/79 (My brilliant over-study) for teaching me right!!!. AI 467 to Kochi took off on time at 0600 Hrs and cruised to its designated altitude. As the morning started clearing the darkness, the sights of the early morning sun to our Port  (Left) Side was amazing. We landed at Kochi right on time and the first Fox to meet us at Airport was LT GIRISH PILLAI/FOX/112 whose Fox Memorabilia followed us in Indigo's flt from New Delhi. Girish you got to do the honors and explain as to how this magic happened.

         We checked into the Southern Naval Command Mess courtesy a senior Fox and promptly knocked off to catch our sleep. The plan was to ring in the New Year at Naval Offr Institute. The news came in from Girish Pillai/Fox/112 that the celebrations have been called off. However, the indomitable Foxies (and Kochi is famous for youngsters) met at the NOI in eve and we all had a heady and great time. A youngster on the adjacent table commanded," WHEN I SAY CHUCK, THE GLASSES SHOULD BE EMPTY". I loved it and surely the Fauj is still in right hands....

       The New Year 2013 was welcomed in the confines of VIP-22 Cabin at SNCO Mess and also it was yet another milestone of 20 Years of Commissioned Service for me. Wow...Am I on the path to liberation, I asked myself as we sped towards Kumarakom on the 01 Jan 13. The pleasant drive through the winding and narrow roads is great and away from biting cold of Delhi, the heat and humidity was welcome. The Toyota Etios has a good AC and it kept us chilled.

       We were dropped at Club Mahindra, Kumarakom at 1230 hrs and were received by the pleasant staff. A good head massage relieved me and I was young as ever. Wow...I surely envied all those who have been raised in this part of the country. The SHELLABALA oil is very refreshing as it goes deep inside the skull and rejuvenates the mind and soul. A head bath and jump into the blue pool followed.

      On 02 Jan 13, we set out on a SHIKARA ride into the back waters and into the lagoon. The photographs enclosed would give you a fair idea of the beauty of this part of our country. May I take this opportunity to request Foxies from this lat-long to kindly organize a FOX GTG at Kumarakom where some Foxies and their Vixens can make it and we all can have good Toddy and fried fish and just ease our tensions away as the house boat sails away. Nostalgia can run amok and wild on those 03 days. Can we have a Fox Holiday here in Dec 13 Sirs???

      Enclosed below is the photo link to this wonderful trip:-

   https://plus.google.com/photos/101238588481972006061/albums/5828857439207757505?authkey=CJCF_JSuwa6faA  

Best regards all the way from God's Own Country            

TRAVELOGUE JAISELMER

          The fantastic visit to Jaiselmer came to an end on 27 Dec 12 and we checked out of Club Mahindra at 1000 Hrs. The bonds and friendships developed with the young crew at Club was great and we had a great sign off. 

            Train 14660 to Delhi left Jaiselmer sharp at 1720 hrs and our Man Friday (Guide) ANAND BASU was at the Station to bid us farewell. Hats off to Rajasthan. The journey of this train is slightly painful as there is no pantry car, however, we were adequately loaded. The food that we carried from Jaiselmer was also shared with our co-passengers who incidentally were also with us at the Club.

            The journey was made comfortable as I slipped into my bunk and read the SHADES OF OLIVE GREEN by BPS MANDER/FOX/34. The book captivated me completely as I slipped inside its fantastic canvass and the story line kept me engaged till I finished it late into the night. If you read this book , then we can surely bet that there is at least one Fox inside one of the 3 ex-NDA Army Offrs around whom the story revolves. A must read...

            New Delhi welcomed us with the cold bite and with a generous help from  PRASHANT BIST/FOX/96 who gave us lift from Delhi Cantt Stn where autos/ taxis are hard to find for Delhi Cantt. Many thanks Prashant for making our travel a comfortable experience.

JAISELMER TRAVELOGUE

Day-1 (23 Dec 12)

         

 The train 14659 Delhi-Jaiselmer-Barmer Exp chugged into Delhi Cantt Rly Stn almost an hour late and the doors of the AC Coaches were locked from inside. The train stops here for 2 minutes and a closed door is nightmarish. Anyways, it was later found that it is a trick by the railway staff to capture some seats and capitalize. The poor legitimate passenger would be left frowning and panting as the train just moves on. So, the lesson learnt is to board the train from the starting station itself.

      

Anyhow, the NDA Trng came in handy and we were on the moving train. The train condition in the 2AC leaves much to be desired. The coupe seems to be at least 20 year old and not well maintained. The compartment is full of foreign tourists and I can visualize their reactions. 

   

The train speed is good though and the major stations touched were Alwar, Jaipur, Phalodi and Pokaran. Jaiselmer is about an hour away as I write this piece and rest follows. The stay is at Club Mahindra at Jaiselmer.

Day-2

       

The train 14659 moved into Jaiselmer station on time and the quietness of Jaiselmer was written all over the station.

       

The Rajasthani simplicity is still on and one is bound to speculate on the decision of staying in tinsel cities versus these sleepy towns!! There are not many porters on the station and one needs to push own luggage. This is our second visit to Jaiselmer. In 2008, we had driven down from Delhi and welcomed 2009 at Khuri desert. This time around also, I had called up my trusted Man Friday ANAND BASU (a local guide -Mobile 9413705717) and he was waiting for us at the Rly Stn.

      

Anand had hired a Toyota Innova for us @ 10/- per km and the vehicle dropped us at Club Mahindra which is 12 kms outside city and 1 km before Jaiselmer Airport. Club Mahindra was all rigged out for the Xmas Party with Rajasthani local dance and music troupe. The party began at 1930 hrs with 100 Pipers, Fuel and Bacardi Black in tow. The Stage was set on fire by the Club guests and children. The sumptuous spread was a delight and the night stayed young for long.

Day-3

         

Day 3 at Jaiselmer was the Xmas Day. What a pleasure it is to sleep in a place which has no din of traffic. Our house at Delhi is on a busy road and the “chak-de” Delhiites keep plying on this road at all hours. So, the Club Mahindra at Jaiselmer is a boon.
   
After a great breakfast and with packed sandwiches, we set off towards the Indo-Pak Border and to see the famous TANOT RAI MATA Temple. The idea was also to travel the Fox Memorabilia till this famous Border and to visit this famous Temple. A Google search of this temple would bring forth the amazing feat of this temple. Along the way we crossed a sleepy village Ramgarh and had lovely tea. Also, to convert the visit into a picnic on return leg, I bought 3 bottles of Hayward’s 2000 beer.

     

We reached the temple located 122 Kms from Jaiselmer by a scenic road and it’s a pleasure to ride on this road without much traffic. On entry to the Temple , we were received by Sub Satbir Singh of 11 Grndrs. He just saw the Fox Cap and came forward. Then the visit was a cake walk. We were served best food from the langar and were looked after well. Also we met a Coy of 14 JAKRIF and nostalgically remembered my course mate Kuldeep Kalsi who has commanded this fantastic unit. A quick call to Kuldeep and his boys were happy and thrilled.

     

Now, in this adventure, an incident took place. Immediately on reaching the temple, a beer bottle exploded and we took it as an omen. Maybe on Guruparab (Xmas) the Lord and the Goddess had another design.

    

We reached back at the resort along with our Man Friday ANAND BASU, the guide of Jaiselmer and rolled the day over with the trusted FUEL in the company of SPRITE. 2 bottles of Hayward’s 2000 survived to see another day/night.

Day-4

  

The best part of Jaiselmer is the bright mornings. This is our 2nd trip in Dec to this city and it is much better to be here rather than suffer at Delhi. Though, personally, I love winters and the entire trousseau dressing which is complimentary with low temperatures.

      

The day began with a visit to the world famous Jaiselmer Fort (also called Sonar Fort).This fort presents a magnificent look and has many stories associated with it. Our guide ANAND BASU was at his wittiest best and took us around the length and breadth of the Fort along with the great history of the brave warriors of Jaiselmer. The Fort complex is unique as the common citizens still stay inside and there are many hotels and Jain temples inside the Fort. Ladies enjoyed shopping of traditional bangles and peeks inside the antique shops.

        

A quick Rajasthani lunch at a restaurant filled us all up and we began our drive towards Kuldhara and Sam Desert. Kuldhara is located at a distance of about 20 Km from Jaiselmer. It is said that one night, 84 villages belonging to Paliwals just vacated their homes with whatever they could carry and left after the King levied a 1 paisa penalty per person. The ruins of those villages can be seen today. The best part is that no one can stay inside Kuldhara after sun set as it is haunted.

     

After a quick look around Kuldhara, we cruised towards Sam Desert to visit sand-dunes. Sam is about 20 kms ahead of Kuldhara. We reached Sam well before Sunset and camel ride was arranged for kids and adults. The sunset at Sam is heady and many a hues are visible in the sky. This is the peak tourist season and the desert resorts were packed with tourists who were enthusiastically waiting for the Rajasthani Folk Programme (which interestingly now also has Russian Belly Dancers!!!!) and local cuisines. The bars were checked correct.

     

The night at Sam is a treat for some. Anyways, we cruised back towards Club Mahindra to be a part of "PUNJAB di RAAT" and to honor the 2 bottles of Hayward’s 2K. The night was brilliant at Club Mahindra as the Fox Josh and vigor swept the guests away. We rocked, sang and danced and honored the 100 Pipers, Fuel and Hayward’s 2k. Wow, there were no baggages left and the magic of Sam Desert (minus the belly dancing!!) was created at Club Mahindra. The young staff of Club was a josh team too and ensured best time for us. The day was refreshing and the night was great and cool fun.