TRAVELOGUE CAMBODIA

King Suryavarman-II of the Khmer Empire climbed the steps and looked at the marvel of his creation. The Sun had not yet risen and the shadows of the Angkor Wat Temple looked awesome against the dark backdrop. Suryavarman-II took a deep breath and the pure cool air filled his lungs. He waited as the Sun broke out and the glory of Angkor Wat exploded in all its might as Sun’s rays lit up the majestic art work that had been created over 03 decades. Over 5 million tons of building material had been used to arch out the Angkor Wat. It was the tribute of Suryavarman-II to his Lord Vishnu.

Suryavarman-II was all of 23 and a powerful young man when he snatched power by killing his great uncle, Dharanindravarman I, while he was riding an elephant. An inscription says that Suryavarman killed the man “as Garuda [a mythical bird] on a mountain ledge would kill a serpent.” Suryavarman-II was destined to rule with wars and battles littered all around. He successfully built up the Khmer Empire over a large territory and the empire prospered. Suryavarman-II defeated rival claimants to the throne and established sole rule over Cambodia by 1113, reuniting the country after more than 50 years of unrest. Warlike and ambitious, he expanded the limits of Cambodia to include much of what is now Thailand; his patronage stretched as far west as the frontiers of the Burmese state of Pagan, south to the coast of the Gulf of Thailand (including part of the eastern coast of the Malay Peninsula), and east to the kingdom of Champa in the southern part of what is now Vietnam.

He venerated Lord Vishnu, a deity often depicted as a protector, and installed a statue of the God in Angkor Wat’s central tower. This devotion can also be seen in one of the most remarkable reliefs at Angkor Wat, located in the southeast of the temple. The relief shows a chapter in the Hindu story of creation known as the “churning of the sea of milk.” 

In today’s Cambodia, Johnan Soklang Chea and Sophear M Sreat are two of many enterprising women folk. They both have overcome many hurdles in their respective lives and proudly lead their own organizations and work commonly with Cambodian Women Entrepreneurs Association. They both represent vibrancy, hard work and a zeal to excel. They are out there to create a legacy carved out of their respective lives.

As Suryavarman-II walked towards his marvel using the main entrance from the west (a direction associated with Vishnu) across a stone causeway, with guardian lions marking the way, he knew that his end was near. He had ruled for almost 37 years and knew that this would be his resting place as yet gain the upheavals in the Khmer Empire’s boundaries had begun to redraw the boundaries. The temple still had many works to do, but Suryavarman-II would not see its completion. In 1150 Suryavarman died in the midst of a new campaign against Champa (present day South- West Vietnam), leaving his people exhausted by war and victimized by the once-subservient Chams, who eventually ravaged Angkor. He was (probably) buried inside the marvel that he had created-The Angkor Wat.

Welcome to today’s Siem Reap, a Cambodian city located 7.5 Kms from Angkor Wat. The city where the Angkor temple was built and was once the capital of the Khmer Empire. This city contains hundreds of temples. Its population once may have been over 1 million people. It was easily the largest city in the world until the Industrial Revolution. A busy tourist destination today, Siem Reap, mingles various nationalities into its tiny fold and provides a neat arrangement for the lost humanity. The Pub Street hosts the action for the winding down tourists catching up on traces of ancient human civilization. The bustling market, neat hotels and the night bazaar wind down late into the night as the music, the Apsara Dance shows and revelry of the Pub Street usurps the tourists. The cuisine delights includes animal lives of many form and shapes and is coupled with relaxing massage parlors where the tired bones are creaked out for nuts. 

Early in the morning, the sea of varied humanity gathers in front of the Angkor Wat’s main entrance and waits with baited breath as the Sun pitches in to take its various positions. The temple domes stand out in the Sun and the dull grey structure tells its glorious past to the mesmerized tourists. The atmosphere around the temple has a chill effect till the mighty Sun takes over with its warmth toning up the Angkor’s stones. Angkor Wat is surrounded by a 650-foot-wide (200 m) moat that encompasses a perimeter of more than 3 miles (5 km). This moat is 13 feet deep (4 m) and would have been designed to stabilize the temple’s foundation, preventing groundwater from rising too high or falling too low. Building Angkor Wat was an enormous undertaking that involved quarrying, careful artistic work and lots of digging. To create the moat around the temple, 1.5 million cubic meters (53 million cubic feet) of sand and silt were moved, a task that would have required thousands of people working at one time.

The buildings at Angkor Wat posed their own challenges. To support them a tough material called laterite was used, which in turn was encased with softer sandstone that was used for carving the reliefs. These sandstone blocks were quarried at the Kulen Hills, about 18 miles (30 km) to the north. Recent research proves that they were transported to the site by a series of canals. The sea of humanity moves inside the temple complex as the Sun breaks out and the high walls of the premises poses a question to each visitor, “How must this Temple have been built?” The steep stairs challenge today’s humans and the dull grey center tower presents a majestic look as bewildered tourists queue up to climb its steep staircase. The climb clearly indicates that reaching the abode of God is not easy, one has to work hard for it.

The ruins of civilization near Angkor Wat are magnificent. In its prime, this civilization was much advanced and would have stayed in most pristine environment. The system of canals would have brought in great prosperity and the powerful Khmer Kingdom under Suryavarman-II would have thrived with busy humans. In its complete glory, the temples of Angkor city would have had hues of bright shades and imaginations runs amok as one visualizes the technological challenges those humans surmounted. 

A swift stroke from Suryavarman-II would have been the result of years of practice of martial arts. With that one stroke, he captured the power and along with his priest Diwakarpandita crafted a brand new history. Alas, very few humans live to see the complete glory of their visualizations. Indeed, it is not possible also as the humans are designed to think. Many who achieve something are always looking forward and thus it is difficult to see the culmination of their dreams. An Angkor Wat today with all available technologies may not be possible in the time that it took Suryavarman-II to almost build his dream. He and his team were designers and planners of great qualifications and their project management techniques were amazing.

The modern Cambodia is a treat for the Lonely Planet. The shades of history have not been very kind to this country but the picture emerging out today is a saga of human fight back. The country seems bustling and moving to capture the lost times. The fighting spirit is littered all across the country and the northward trends are clearly visible. Today’s Cambodia is epitomized by its young generation which is building up a dream for a better tomorrow. Neat and tidy environment coupled with smooth discipline adds up to the comfort of the humans. A festive spirit erupts every evening when humanity gathers around the majestic conglomeration of rivers Tonle Sap, Mekong and Bassac. The day winds down with happiness even as the new morning beckons. 

A vibrant Cambodia awaits tourists with options of great tourism and connect with lost civilization. Vibrant Johnan Soklang Chea and Sophear M Sreat are shining examples of the fighting Cambodian spirit which is bound to touch humanity. Enterprise management is a skilled path which many fear to tread. Johnan, Sophear and many more of their ilk have decided to walk the talk with élan, grace and honor. The legacy of Suryavarman-II is dull grey today, but, it has withstood the rigors of times and stands tall within the ruins. Angkor Wat may have lost its colors (which today’s world can only imagine) but Cambodians of today are building the country to its original vibrancy. Angkor remains the fabled backdrop of Cambodia and its young generation knows the path to new vigor and glory.

We discovered only about 20 % of what Cambodia offers to the tourists and looking forward to the next trip. 

All the best if you decide to visit Cambodia and discover this glorious part of the Lonely Planet.   

  

80th NDA-THE SILVER JUBILEE REUNION

At the stroke of 1 am on 06 Jun 2016, the band stopped the music and the motley crowd settled around the sprawling tables inside the air conditioned hall of Novotel, Pune. Amongst the motley crowd, the men folk were dressed in a similar maroon tee-shirt. The motley character of the gathering was more attributable to the women folk as they held on to their men who were once again transported from a butterfly to a pupa. The wee hours of the morning began to roll as anecdotes flowed out and laughter went all around. Each face had a distinct cherubic look and the souls were at an eternal harmony. Welcome, the Silver Jubilee of the 80^th Course of the National Defence Academy had finally come to an end.

In the 1981 classic, CHARIOTS OF FIRE, Master of Caius, exhorted to the 1919 Cambridge University Freshman Class, “ I take the war list and I run down it, name after name, which I cannot read, and which we who are older than you cannot hear without emotion; names which will be only names to you, the new College, but which to us summon up face after face, full of honesty and goodness, zeal and vigor, and intellectual promise; the flower of a generation, the glory of England; and they died for England and all that England stands for. And now by tragic necessity their dreams have become yours. Let me exhort you: examine yourselves. Let each of you discover where your true chance of greatness lies. For their sakes, for the sake of your college and your country, seize this chance, rejoice in it, and let no power or persuasion deter you in your task.” These words can stand true for any institution of great repute.         

Words cannot bind humans but can exhort them to achieve greatness in whatever they do. National Defence Academy- The Maker of Men is a unique abode to young boys who enter its magnificent portals and turn out into Military leaders. The bond and camaraderie developed in the NDA has proven its worth over and over again. The values imbibed into the young men goes a long way as each one of them fans out into his Military Uniform to serve the Nation. Each NDA course is selected from a vast pool of boys who qualify after a grueling examination process combining various stages. The word COURSEMATES finds its true meaning as joint services ethos get ingrained into each NDA cadet during their military training. Cadets stay close together during various stages of training and inside the sprawling Campus of the NDA 18 Squadrons from Alpha to Romeo (A to R) house the cadets from the various courses running their respective training.        

This year it was the turn for the 80^th Course to celebrate the Silver Jubilee of its Passing Out from the NDA. The bonhomie needs a trigger and in 2015 itself, the ignited minds got around to work for the grand event. Ideas generated pace as each day inched closer towards the D-day. Soon enough the frenzy bugles were sounded and social media erupted with photographs of the yore and video messages scorched across screens. The theme “Zindagi Aa Raha Hoon Main” (I am coming) raised its banter and became the slogan for the Silver Jubilee celebrations. One after the other, the Cadets of yesteryears moved and conglomerated at Pune. They were not alone, they came with their better halves and children. The extravaganza began on the 03^rd of Jun 2016 as people met after 25 years and lesser. Pune again converted into a hot town as divas of the 80^th Course looked sizzling alongside their starry eyed husbands.

          

The visits to the NDA were coordinated to bring back the fond memories and gala events rocked the gang of 80^th NDA. Walking on the majestic pathways along with their better halves pumped up the adrenalin of the ex-Cadets. They reminisced their stay at the Academy. The stories of great traditions were told with renewed vigor and there was laughter all around. The glorious Military ceremony at The Hut of Remembrance (HoR) united the souls as winds of heaven danced around the gathering of somber humanity. Gentle but firm salutes were presented at the HoR to honor the ultimate sacrifice of the departed ex-NDAs.          

A much awaited visit to the respective Squadrons brought back the young man out of the SJ Course. Everyone did what he could do the best during his days at the Squadron. A movie ran right in front of the eyes as each one told his part of the story to his wide eyed family. The gala and laughter found abundance as the mystical Squadron environment added to the spirit of fervor and spirit-de-corps. It was one big family re-union as the squadron opened up its gates to children and ladies of the young men who had spent countless hours to shine the building and its floors. Academy was once again live and teary eyed boys moved about its premises remembering those glorious years that they had spent together.          

The gala SJ celebrations were completed with two amazing parties, one each by the NDA Pool Side and one at Novotel, Pune. These parties added fuel to the SJ’s fire. Raw talent matched experienced artists and the outcome was pure nostalgia. It seemed that the night would never end. No one was willing to move back and head home. The departure was sounded, but only after a pledge was taken to re-unite again and soon.

 As the plane rolled down the tarmac, I sat back and imagined what would I not be able to do if I am sent back to NDA again? The sheer nostalgia built up as the mind raced to scramble for the answers. In the end, I just concluded, even if it’s a risk at this age- it is worth the risk.  The words of Master of Caius came back,” Let me exhort you: examine yourselves. Let each of you discover where your true chance of greatness lies. For their sakes, for the sake of your college and your country, seize this chance, rejoice in it, and let no power or persuasion deter you in your task.” Would you take me back, once more, National Defence Academy- I would like to be re-born for you yet again!!!