Travelogue Itmenaan Estate, Chalnichinna, Dist Almora, Uttarakhand, India

Day-1:- 30 Aug 2018. After a fruitful working day at Delhi, left at 4pm towards Haldwani. The Green Mamba (Duster) purred with excitement as finally it was climbing hills. The drive out of Delhi was good as the new Meerut Highway led us towards new KMP Highway and we bypassed bad traffic of Ghaziabad. The ongoing flyover constructions slowed us down till Pilakhuwa where we crawled and lost 40 minutes. A pit stop at Bikanerwala on Hapur -Moradabad Highway for an early dinner (Uttapam) and I throttled the 4x4 on the dark Highway (which had lamps but no current). 

A Uttarakhand Roadways Bus travelling towards Haldwani guided me and put us on a track right through deep forest route. It was an occasional vehicle on road and I maintained a steady 80 KMPH to avoid any disturbance to the flora and fauna.

A wild elephant turned his (or her) back towards us as the Duster emerged silently out of a bend with all its lights lighting up the jungle.We checked into Haldwani at 11pm and snuggled into a nice room at Hotel Devashish as the town slept quietly.The car performed well and the Honeywell Car Purifier worked silently to keep us absolutely fresh.Looking forward to the climb today as rains pour down.

Day 2- 31 Aug 2018. The stay at Hotel Devashish, Haldwani rejuvenated us and after the breakfast We were all set to brace the rains which were lashing Haldwani. The Green Mamba (Renault Duster) had been itching to burn up the diesel in its 1461cc engine. The trick of the mountain driving lies in a careful driver and a fit car. We fueled up the diesel at Haldwani and I pressed the gas to meet our first destination Bhimtal. 

The nature's fury had brought down a large tree at a busy Haldwani Junction. The smiling policemen were busy clearing the traffic and helped us to the Bhimtal axis. The 4x4 sprang to life as the Green Mamba could sense the fun on pot holed roads. The gas pedal merits careful handling as all 4 wheels rip through the pot holed and keep the 4x4 vehicles scale dirt with ease. The Haryana Registration helps the cause as the hill drivers feel that the driver is a novice! Speed is a thrilling bet and the Green Mamba had its share of fun as it set a scorching pace through the hill bends with all its lights blazing. Soft rock songs filled the cabin with delight and we crossed a filled up Bhimtal Lake. A large group of ducks was wading through its waters as rains lashed around. It was a great sight and we paced towards Almora.

The roads are good and a few pot holed patches but who cares as the radials tackled them with ease. The bumps in the cabin can hardly be felt and I tried the ABS of the Green Mamba to my utter joy. It performed smoothly.

Crossing Almora, we cut across roads leading towards Ranikhet, Binsar and zoomed towards Jageshwar Dham. A river flowed alongside and its flow through its rocky surface boosted the spirits of the drive. A patch of racing with an Innova Crysta whose driver was not willing to let us pass ahead created some good fun moments. Eventually, we cut him across after a bend and Green Mamba blinked its parking lights signalling its better grip on the road.

Leaving the main road behind at a junction we turned towards Artola and Suakhan to reach our stop at *Chalnichinna*. It is at this place that our stay in *Itmenaan Estate* was planned.

Leaving Green Mamba parked in the village market,we made our way 670 meters down the hill through a stone track. This track tests the mettle of pollution impacted metro city lungs. The calf muscles felt the load and became live again. The stomach churned the last morsel into energy and also dug deep into fats layered here and there.

The stop at our breathtaking cottage made the down climb a great cheer. The whiff in the air opened up the lungs and blood stream felt a new vigor. The Welcome Drink was made of a local fruit and purged the system walls of clogs and dirt. The home cooked lunch had a brilliant taste and as if to welcome us- the rains did not lash us. The terrace farmed hills, villages spread across hills and intermittent clouds coming down as if to check the new habitants made our day. 

Itmenaan Estate has stoned rooms,wooden floors and comfortable beds. The Staff is amazing and makes this a perfect stay where one can get merged with the Beauty of the surroundings. No wonder, it is a hit with foreign visitors who come here to merge with the nature and enjoy week full of village life experience.

The silent night there out some wonderful stars and inspite of light clouds the patch of stars opened up at our azimuth. The neck craned up and the mesmerizing spell kept us awake. The stillness,the calmness and the nature's fragrance are our partners for this stay. Cheers.

Day 3 & 4- 01- 02 Sep 2018. The stillness,the calmness and the nature's fragrance were our partners for this stay. If today, these places are so enchanting, then what bliss they would have been for the likes of Jim Corbett and to the saints/poets/writers who lived in these serene mountains! Life would have been so very different for these folks- we can only wonder and remain in their awe.

The climb from our Deodhar Cottage to the road head amounted to 27 Floors (or downhill!) of 670 meters. This challenge removed the need for any TMT and proved that the body was still performing at 1763 Meters above the sea level. The pounding heart heated up the blood vessels as we did this route 4 times in 02 nights stay. The view en-route is simply- breathtaking.

When we finally climbed for our departure towards Bhimtal, the whistling winds from the tall trees ran a melodious music for us. The clouds rose through the valley and hit the cheeks to leave a cool effect. The village market Folks gave a passing glance as if to tell the traveler that you can stay longer! Wish we could and with a vow to return, I powered up the Duster. 

We crossed a bend and saw the signboard *Jageshwar Dham* - 3 km. We put the Duster on the track and came to an ancient heritage site with a temple complex. This complex has small and big temples in a single complex sitting next to a rivulet. The nip in the air cannot be missed here. Going around the temples, we saw newly weds going through prayers with their families. It is here that we met an astrologer who was candid with his calculations and the discussion was amazing. We left Jageshwar happy and contended- our lives have so much.

We scaled Bhimtal and after a rejuvenating Masala Tea at a NGO Tea Stall checked into *Freddy's Bungalow* at Bhimtal. This Bungalow is also a part of *Itmenaan Estate*. The wonderful part of this Bungalow perched up high on a hill top is its amazing collection of well preserved Butterflies and Insects found in these hills. Amazing and worth a watch. The courteous staff looked after is well and we stayed the night in a well maintained attic room.

Jim Corbett has always been an intriguing figure for me. This time, we decided to stop at The Corbett Museum located in Kaladhungi. His house wherein he lived with his spinster sister Maggi is a treat to visit. We had crossed this place so many times during our travels to Corbett Park but never stopped. Jim's adventures and his books have some of the most captivating accounts of Man Vs Wild. If Jim had technology at his disposal, Bear Gryllsmay not have been in business. Jim Corbett traversed through a large tract of Kumaon and Garhwal Hills. Many would be amazed to know that he was born in India from his parents respective second marriages, worked for Railways, fought with Kumaoni troops in the First World War (was a Colonel) and went on to do successful businesses. He was a true colonizer and each visit to Corbett leaves us mesmerized as we discuss how he would have lived in those days! Amazing lives and Jim deserved the best from India.

The pit stop at Corbett Museum rejuvenated us as we read the letters which he wrote and how well he understood India. The Museum Shop has a handsome offer of great stuff. We picked up spices, tea, pickles and a Compass to keep us focused on the North.

The return leg to Delhi has its choke points at Pilakhua (Hapur) as the bridge construction leads to jams. Well, a price has to be paid for infrastructure development and we paid 45 minutes for the cause.

We entered Delhi amidst news of water logging due to heavy rains and checked into the home at 9pm. 

The 04 days amounted to 840 kms, a study of Kumaon hills above Almora and the next travel to Berinag and Munsiyari beckons ahead. It is always a pleasure to see the snow clad mountains and the chill in the atmosphere.

Travel you must and discover the hidden India. Itmenaan Estates gave us an amazing perspective as it is a challenge to reach its boundaries. Once these boundaries are scaled, you will be awestruck with the power of Mother Nature running its magic all over. The cool breeze whistling through pines, the gushing water in a hidden waterfall, the Milky Way lighting up the night, the clouds going up and down- what more one needs to charge the heart, mind and soul. (Travel Photos- https://photos.app.goo.gl/m3FNMV57Tk6JB5Hc9)

THE BATTLES WITHIN

52 BCE, the City of Alesia lay under siege from the Roman Army of Julius Caesar. The wooden barricades were laid all around the city and gradually choked the city of its food supplies. The Gaul General Vercingetorix (The Winner of 100 Battles) was trapped inside Alesia with his supporting legions and had waited in vain for the support to arrive. He had a decision to take that fateful day. As the silence of the siege built up outside, a battle within Vercingetorix had raised its head. The General had limited options and he had to exercise one of them to push the situation ahead. 

Vercingetorix emerged from his quarters early in the morning. He was dressed in his finest armor and his imposing figure commanded respect from his followers. He looked at the city’s sights, his mind went back over the details of his earlier decisions wherein he had burnt down cities, farms and food halls to dissuade the Roman Army and to limit their supply chains. He climbed on his tall stallion and rode outside the city gates. 

Julius Caesar was sitting in judgment over a tribunal when Vercingetorix appeared suddenly from nowhere. The battles immediately raged in the minds of everyone present on that site. Each mind was calculating the next move and their hands instinct went to locate their respective weapons and armors. The strapping General got down from his horse, unlocked his armor and went on his knees in front of Caesar. He culled many a battles short as he offered himself but sought the safe passage for his citizens out of a parched Alesia. History holds the imprint of this action of Vercingetorix and his stature as a great hero of the ancient World continues in the lands that he once strode tall on. He had the capability of cutting the battle lines short with his one decisive act. He did pay the price with his life eventually, but ensured that many lives were saved that fateful day and lived on to tell the tales.

Julius Caesar, at that time, was busy consolidating his position and had great ambitions. His Army was getting stronger by the day and with this surrender, he knew his time had come to go back to Rome. The orders from Rome, though, directed him not to come back to Rome but to expand the empire! Now, the battles raged within his mind and he had options to exercise. He moved back towards Rome and his men had their own battles running within as they sensed that this victory over the Gauls would fetch them good returns. This is the irony of the human life- the battles within continue to build up one after another.

Caesar’s march came to a halt one day when he reached the other end of the River Rubicon. The orders from the Roman Senate were not to cross the river with the Army. A potential civil war loomed ahead and Caesar knew about the imminent war. His words were that the die has been cast and his legion cross the River Rubicon. The battles within many minds subsided to give way to new battles rising and Caesar went onto become the Dictator of an Imperial Rome. No victory is perfect and new battles keep shaping up at each milestone of life. Julius Caesar’s battles within just multiplied when he announced his dictatorship. He wanted to control the empire to follow his dreams. There is no denial to the fact he implemented many ideas and made Rome into a powerful Empire. His fist was strong till he hit upon a disease which affected his cerebrovascular abilities. The battles continued to rise within him and his detractors. Eventually, Caesar also left this World still battling many odds as he was stabbed multiple times. 

The question then emerges- can the battles within be controlled? Some humans do have the capability to control their own surging battles and douse them by taking harder decisions upon themselves. Their decisions do a lot harm to them than the good but they are willing to pay the quoted price. This does help them to limit the battles that rage the average human mind and each assault becomes harder to tackle. Something similar to what Vercingetorix and Caesar faced in their lives is faced by business teams each day. The vagaries of the World, its changing priorities and emerging trends – collectively put a business team on its toes each day. There is no escape from its clutches.

There are high expectations for growth, but few manage to expand sustainably and profitability year after year. However, the probability of achieving profitable growth is heightened whenever an organization has a clear growth strategy and strong execution infrastructure. One without the other impairs the probability of success. This is what culls out the battles within.  One in about 10 companies grow sustainably and profitably. Ninety percent of companies fail to hit the growth projections they put in their own annual report. We can safely interpret that growth is one of the hardest acts in business or even in other walks of life. Sustainable growth is fascinatingly hard. And when you try to find out what were the barriers to growth, the incredible thing is that in only 15% of the cases the market emerges as a culprit!! Only in about 15% of cases do they say “We didn’t grow because of something that happened externally.” In the majority of cases, what emerges is that there are internal barriers to their growth, which leads us to say “What kills the future of growth is not the market, but your own internal complexity.” This again gets us back to the point where the battles within minds keep adding up the complexities. Complexity becomes the silent killer of the growth.

But, interestingly, the strategy itself is simplifying if done right.

 

The first strategy is: FOCUS.      You have to have a strong, well-defined core business that you drive to its full potential. That is simplifying. You have to focus on a few things. Keep the mind decluttered.

The second strategy is: LEADERSHIP.     There is always a need to drive to leadership economics. Again, that’s simplifying. Focus on those businesses which are leading and get better performance from them.

The third strategy is: CUSTOMERS.   If you had to do one thing: Be completely focused on customer advocacy. Keep the customer to the forefront of each activity that you are doing. Customer is the King.

The fourth strategy is: DISCIPLINE & POTENTIAL.  If you have to move into businesses outside your core, make sure you’re doing it from your full potential, and make sure you’re incredibly disciplined, because expansions to uncharted waters often kills businesses.

The fifth strategy is: LEVERAGING. Leverage a repeatable model. Figure out what it is that you do incredibly well that can be translated into a front-line routine and do it again and again.

One size never fits all and so is true for life/business as well. The heat of the battle can only be gauged when the first contact is made. The victorious eventually realize that their clouds of doubts were lesser than the fallen. The battles within will continue to snare the thought process. It is the ability of the human mind which has to find deft solutions to keep scaling the grey zones of the mind. So, what is the battle which is raising its rampart in your mind right now? Have you got the solution to its challenges, eh?

Fox in #Football

I had the honor to play 2nd String Football for my Squadron "Foxtrot" in the National Defence Academy🤪. It was the CSM's (Cadet Sargent Major leads the discipline and morale of the Squadron and is a final termer) ploy as he converted 6th String into a dummy 2nd String to meet his strategy for the inter-Squadron competitions.

The match began with Kilo Squadron’s original 2nd string team. The ball remained in Foxtrot half only as both the teams were unequally balanced! Killers got the whiff of our potential, but, we disrupted their game somehow by sliding, tackling and hitting the ball deliberately out of the field. The intensity of Killers was too high and the Fighters were running out of meager ideas about Football. In the National Defence Academy, a Cadet is made to play all types of field games to ensure that they learn these games and be able to play with their troops when they become Officers. This also makes them understand the meaning of team spirit. After all , National Defence Academy's motto is to convert Boys into Men. This is inscribed on a red stone where it is written "NDA- THE MAKER OF MEN".

After about 20 minutes of haggling,the hell broke loose as Killers scored 7 goals in about as many minutes The Referee was a young non- ex-NDA Officer who had just come on a posting and had no experience of how a National Defence Academy Cadet would think🧐.

He could not judge in the first half as to what was happening. The Killers also thought they had a kill but were going slow themselves as they had a comfortable lead. The Officer was by now having a situation as Foxies were shooting long balls and out of the ground. The heat on the ground was making the Officer's throat dry as he was running more than the Cadets and his whistle kept him pumping more breath into its ravines. The game slowed down again but the Officer by now had got the whiff of it. He stopped the game and the second half was only the front and back rolling session on the field and both Squadrons rolled-up and down- Fox for foxing around Kilo and Kilo for not steam rolling and killing Fox🤫.
Suddenly, the Deputy Commandant of the Academy landed on the field and saw the Cadets rolling and the score reading 7-0🤥. The Officer explained to him the matter. The Deputy Commandant just smiled away and said," Even I was a dummy 2nd String player my self and it needs courage to face an original 2nd String! These Foxies will be a tougher lot from now onward. Keep the game on and report the goal margins to me tomorrow". He told the Foxies to score a goal against Killers and promised to visit the team in the Squadron if that happens! He went away and the game started.

Foxies got charged up and the final score read 10-3 in favor of Kilo. The 11 Foxies on ground had a reason to celebrate- the 3 goals against a Goliath Team and a visit by the Deputy Commandant to the Squadron. We also became Footballers as Deputy Commandant visited the Foxtrot Squadron and hailed the Fighter's spirit of the team🦊. He said,"Damn Good Fighters. In the battle you would meet unequal enemies and I am sure that you boys will face them with grit and fight. Great spirit you all exhibited. Keep the fight on.” We all rejoiced and the team went into play more matches with the "Never Say Die" fighting spirit. We lost many matches but the fight remained in all.

Cheers to Football , Footballers and their Fighter's Spirit.

"Enter my portals O glory bound one
Learn to lead I'll make you men
In my dreams the bugle sounds
In my heart hope abounds
Leave my portals live like men
Death or glory it matters none
The hour beckons honour at stake
O valiant sons a mother prays
Lead with vigour straight up front
Rocklike bear the enemy's brunt
I shall write your untold story
I shall uphold your blazing glory
Go my sons the earth beckons
Hear my warriors the oceans call
Soar my eagles the sky is yours
Death before defeat
Death before dishonor
Death with distinction
A mother prays for all your days
Strive and seek victory with grace
A mother prays.
A mother prays."

THE PARALLEL LINES

The Boeing 747 rolled down the tarmac for that first time. Circa 1969 and the massive four engine bird was a brand new creation. Its Chief Test Pilot on that eventful 09 Feb 1969 was Jack Wadell. The cockpit was full of new technology as Jack throttled up the machine and the bird took to the skies. It was the beginning of a new era in the Aviation World. The big and strong machine started crossing the oceans and made the inter-continental travels simpler and easier. Each flight would create a line and the return flight would then crate another parallel line in the skies as cities linked their ends though parallel lines are not supposed to meet!

Parallel lines are not supposed to meet till infinity- that is the mathematical definition. Each day the parallel lines get drawn in various spheres of human existence and continue from infinity to infinity. Attempts are constantly made to open dialogue boxes and to make the lines meet at some location. Sometimes the lines meet as the issues close or else the lines continue to stretch into oblivion in search of infinity. The dialogues unite or the failed communication crashes the attempt to make the parallel lines meet.

Basically, humans are an intelligent race. Their tipping point comes when their emotions are disturbed by external or internal factors of their life’s arena. Once troubled, humans have a great tendency to boil the pot of life and cause troubles in and around them. This is where they stretch simple issues onto parallel lines mode and the search for that tranquil infinity begins. Many do end up finding the end to their woes but by then the time has taken its own toll on the warring humans. Compassion, which is a natural trait of humans, returns back to tranquilize them and sober them up. This state though comes late in one’s life and what has been lost never recovers.

Boeing 747 took its maiden flight in 1969 and almost 1500 such airliners touched the skies. The technology kept improvising and many an incremental changes brought better conditions for the humans who flew in these birds. Technology is developed through human intelligence and it is this very intelligence which can be used to nurture infinite compassion inside the humans! Intelligence is the basic factor which can identify good versus the bad emotions and can then filter the best for the humans. If the mind is stable and heart has peace then the physical health remains stable. This adage goes true for a B-747 also, that if the weather conditions are good and the machine is humming silently together, then the flight path creating lines passes away smoothly.

Why should humans not strive for peace and tranquility? The World is connected than ever before and with each passing moment something new is being generated to stitch various dots into a meaningful data. The interpretation of data is making humans reach finite conclusions. These finite conclusions then are becoming the start points for another journey. This again encompasses the diktats of human intelligence and the power of the connected! This is not a simple concept as it entails joining of human thoughts and minds at various levels to produce a finite result! If minds can join to produce a tangible result then why the parallel lines which keep ripping the humans apart in various facets of life be not skewed to meet at a point rather than stretch them till infinity? Infinity is till where the humans can stretch the limits, isn’t it?

B747 lasted close to 47 years and even survived the threat from the Supersonic Airliners which were supposed to disrupt the aviation world. Some engineer humans kept on adding versatility and make-overs to B747s to keep the design relevant till 2017. The intelligence came to the front and scaled up whenever required.

The working capability of humans can reach heights if mind, emotions and logic synchronize to produce the results. It is these heights from where the infinity point can be seen to make those parallel lines meet and then start a new journey.

The 747-100 was nearly twice as long as the Wright brothers’ entire first flight. Indeed, the jet may be most esteemed by those who have been lucky enough to fly it. The very first to do so, the test pilot Jack Waddell, described it as “a pilot’s dream” and a “two-finger airplane” — one that can be flown with just the forefinger and thumb on the control wheel; it is hard to imagine higher praise for such an enormous aircraft. Each human who piloted these birds found the aircraft to be both smooth and maneuverable, a joy to fly and to land. The subject remained simple for each pilot that sat in the cockpit- a distance to cover and arrive in time. The line had to be created both the ways to clock a perfect home-coming. The end of the journey sealed the line till a new dot emerged to draw a new line.

B747s would still be in sky as they get phased out with time. Their onboard Computers would continue to calculate till on that one last day when the power would not be fed to them anymore. Their parallel line would meet its end and the issue would be closed. Humans too possess some similar capabilities if they exercise their talents. After all, humans are the creators of their material possessions!

So, what is stopping humans from closing their parallel lines at a point and restarting the journey with less baggage and fresh minds? Control the emotions and see the positive results. So, have you planned to keep your emotions under control and achieve the results as big as the B747, eh? Wish you a Grand 2018.  

  

THE EVOLUTION

Life keeps throwing challenges. Each new challenge gets more complex as associated factors of human life change their levels with the passage of time. Humans have to, therefore, continuously evolve to meet the needs of the challenges. 

Life never presents equal opportunities and also never presents equal results. Similarly, two humans can never be alike other than certain similarities in their features! Humans do have an uncanny ability to meet the challenges and bring out the results moderated by the change in the levels of the associated factors.

Praveen Teotia was fit as a fiddle when he completed his tough training to become a Marine Commando. The day for him and his colleagues dawned with the first light and they went through the rigorous physical training at their Navy Base. They were being prepared for missions should the country need their services. The training for the Marines knows no limit. These men go through varied physical and mental situations to keep them battle ready. Praveen along with his team members was in the best shape to meet any eventuality.

In November 2008, the Navy Marine Team was assigned a task to neutralize terrorists who had holed up inside the iconic Taj Mahal Hotel at Mumbai. The Marines landed on the site and the battlefield got laid out as the military balance was restored by the arriving teams. The terrorists were holed up inside the hotel and mayhem had been set loose. Crude bombs had been exploding and fires spewed out of the windows of the hotel building. Chaos writ large and the neutrality had to be ensured.

Brave men including Praveen Teotia marched into this unplanned battle zone. Their pre-operative briefing would have been sharp and to the point. The team leader would have discussed point blank plans to ensure minimal damage to his own team with maximum results. The ‘Fog of War” is the uncertainty in situational awareness experienced by participants in military operations. The term seeks to capture the uncertainty regarding one's own capability, adversary capability, and adversary intent during an engagement, operation, or campaign. The warring forces encounter the “Fog of War” as soon they enter each other’s boundaries. The Marines and the terrorists were in the same situation as the outer boundary of the battle zone was secured by the Marines and the boundary perimeter started reducing with each step which led to Point Zero.

Weapons unleashed their ferocious fore power from both the sides. Bullets and explosions flew everywhere. Praveen fought bravely till he was felled by 04 bullets. 02 bullets had pierced his lung and ear. He was evacuated to a Military Hospital in a critical condition and his tough soul lived through months to see him getting up with a damaged lung and partial hearing loss. The challenge loomed ahead of Praveen as he had to now evolve again. He could have sat down with his disabilities and decided not to move an inch ahead with his life. Gradually, he would have only degraded down in his capabilities. 

Praveen decided to take the situation in his control and began a marathon recovery. Marathon not only in literal terms but also he started training for marathons with his set of disabilities. He was not going to merely exist in this World, he was out there to make a meaningful living. He continuously wanted to evolve! His stupendous efforts saw him completing the 72-km-long Khardung La marathon in Ladakh, and finished well within the stipulated time, earning a medal. Praveen has yet again evolved himself successfully despite losing some of his critical physical abilities. His mind and perseverance won over his pains and losses!

Humans have no choice but to meet changes and challenges all through their lives. The heat of life keeps making the humans sweat and tries to sap out their best energies. This is the universal phenomenon and humans age as they battle on. Some give up easily and some decide to follow on with their lives battles. They re-adjust and re-calibrate at each stage of life and keep achieving the desired results. As Praveen puts across,”I wanted everyone to know I was the same man who went into the Taj hotel as a commando. I had the right not to be forgotten! “. The words have profound meaning and reflect the sheer will to evolve afresh as life alters to a new dimension. Life can be termed as a brutal companion, it does what it needs to do without any formal warning or lead time to prepare in most circumstances! It is for the humans to face the brunt and then alter themselves successfully to take the new form and shape. This choice is always available and only needs to be embraced.

Set the mind towards positivism and begin the process of evolution. The pains and aches would occur but soon enough the sweet times will emerge on the horizon. The steps would feel lighter and the mind would synchronize to beat the heat of the challenge. The new phase of life would emerge and last till the next evolution beckons. So, who is stopping you from evolving, eh!