Travelogue Ladakh- Blaze The Rough- Part II

(Contd. from Part I I had read that Manali-Leh Highway is one of the surreal and breathtakingly beautiful highways of Incredible India. We clocked 480 kms from Jispa to Leh amidst this celebrated highway and felt the raw power of Indian Himalayas. The Highway zips through Kullu Valley, Lahaul Valley, Sarchu and Morey Plains. The incredible 21 Hairpin Bends called GATA LOOPS; 5 High Altitude Himalayan Passes, cold deserts of Leh Ladakh and mesmerizing lakes are spread along this highway. 

We were crossing the Lachung La Pass which is the 4th High Altitude Pass when we felt the impact of low oxygen. We had missed the breakfast and now were about to miss our lunch too! The reason was simple- the two vehicles wanted to cross this zone faster as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) had entered one car and was knocking on my windows too. Lachung La Pass stands at 16616 feet, and I stepped out to salute the Shaurya Chakra RCC. The oxygen was low, and I could feel the strain as my lungs wanted to expand more. Stepping inside the comfort of Grey Fox (@Mahindra_Thar) comfortable cabin, I pressed the gas to clear 21.6 kms of descent with off-roading on muddy roads to hit the next high jump, a place called Pang. 

The swigs of water continued to help generate oxygen, but the demand of internal chemistry was more. I had to keep the other car in my sight across bends, curves, and heights. At one point, we stopped to hand over water to the other car as by now the driver and his daughter were experiencing headaches. At these heights, the body tries to equalize temperature by ejecting out fluids. It is an experience and not a pleasant one at that.

The climb to Pang was smooth but the stay at Pang is tricky. This place has some rare oxygen conditions and since I had reached early, I decided to empty my 10 Litre Petrol Jerry Can to remove the fumes filling the cabin. A helpful lady from the local Ladakhi Dhaba, helped me to fill the fuel but I had consumed 20 odd minutes at Pang. This can be a mistake!!! The other car drove in, and the Driver was now in a bad state. He could not concentrate and had terrible headache on both temples. This is a terrible situation as the two-sided headache can lead to brain damages. We were now in a fix, had one higher pass to clear and yet were 180 odd kms away from Leh. Aparna was holding well but we both had neither eaten nor could bring ourselves around to eat anything. Water remained our only savior as our body searched for its fuel to run the senses. The stomachs were now a soft target for Mr Murphy, and we had to do something different. The bane of these highways is non-availability of good, hygienic washroom facilities for women travelers and merits remedial action.

I was now in a dilemma as to what should be the game from here onwards till Leh. 180 kms, 2 sick folks including the driver and us both who could also collapse due to AMS! I guided the other family to sit inside the Ladakhi Dhaba and to eat well whatever they could. I requested the Dhaba owner (a kind lady) to look after them and help find a local driver who could move the vehicle to Leh. With a prayer for us all, I spun the Grey Fox and zipped towards the last pass before Leh called Tangla La. As Pang disappeared behind my rear view, Aparna and I were worried for the family left behind and the 180 kms looming ahead of us.

The drive from Pang to Tangla La is a joy and a terrain which seems like another planet. 14.2 kms of uphill climb and one hits this pass. Incredible beauty unfolds (albeit Oxygen remains absent) and the road is exotic. It was at this pass that I felt a little weak in my head, but I pushed myself hard. Crossing the majestic pass, we began a 31.9 kms of downhill journey to Rumtse. The downhill drive is rough, but the Mahindra Thar (Grey Fox) ruled each tarmac offered to it. Truly a majestic vehicle and its automatic transmission is a beauty.

The last 100 kms was a challenge as our tiredness due to less food and oxygen built up. However, this tested our body's pain taking capabilities and God was kind as we entered our hotel after a 12 hour of gruel on the most beautiful Highways of India. The hotel staff was waiting with a cozy room and we just lied down to catch our breath.

Note- This road from Manali to Leh is an extreme challenge and should be attempted with all due care and respect for your own health.

Me and my good lady travelled through Ladakh and touched base with the War Memorials spread enroute. It is a nostalgic feeling to see this rough territory, feel the heat of its physical endurance, meeting with young Soldiers, Officers and to assimilate their experiences. Hats off to all who have served here. We were at Turtuk and the Army team took us to Zero RD. The view from binoculars was scintillating as we could see movement in PoK’s Gilgit Baltistan. The Grey Fox (Mahindra Thar) clocked its 3000th Km here and we felt honored. Met our very own Coursemate at the Hall of Fame at Leh and saluted his supreme sacrifice. The 2nd half of this circuit took us across to Pangong Tso and ahead. A regular microblog was updated through Twitter @ironcoffiner. Hail Indian Army and IAF for doing a wonderful job. The tea at the Rangla Punjab Dhaba opposite Thoise Airfield was most amazing. The Artillery Regiment team made the stop pleasant. Bravo bravo bravo.

The tourists just zip by this stone. No one stops. As I stopped, a biker couple also made a halt and we conversed. They were fascinated to imagine how this would have unfolded in 1948 and then in 1971 as Major (Later Colonel) Chewan Rinchen, Bar to Mahavir Chakra, Sena Medal would have led counter attacks. Sadly, the rapid tourist will end up spoiling Ladakh soon. Incidentally, there have been deaths this year as many tourists have romped over Ladakh and many did not fathom the nature's challenges here. Here are my salient observations: - 

1. Tourists have lost lives as many of them do not merge well with the nature here. 

 2. Bad drivers- both taxi and bikers who do not show any respect for the beauty of the drive.

 3. Plastic flying out of taxis and Ladakh ecology mixing with it.

 4. Graffiti by bikers and tourists.

The list is endless. No one stops as they all are in a hurry to zip from one point to another little realizing that the actual Ladakh is enroute the points! 

They do not meet the fallen soldiers whose memorials and stories are etched on stones. 

Ladakh is not a typical tourist destination and battered tourists vomiting or passed out in speeding Taxis is not a fun. 

As for Manali to Leh- Kindly do not be a Gama as this 580 kms drive can be the toughest of life. We woke up drivers slumbered behind wheels, dozing off with Acute Mountain Sickness, accident blocking roads and overstay on high passes like Pang where a short stay in rare atmosphere can fix one for life!! Be safe folks and respect Ladakh for what it is. Do not romp on its beauty and do not spoil it. Sad to see bikers not respecting basic driving rules and what is the fun then if it is same as city driving!! Is a dirty dress, sun burnt body, no shave et al an idea of biking, then maybe a relook is needed?

TRAVELOGUE LADAKH- BLAZE THE ROUGH-PART I

Day-1 29 May 2022- Blaze the Rough (Delhi to Manali)

Start Time -0530 Hours

Ø Target Destination- Manali

Ø Pit Stops of 20-25 Minutes- 04

Ø Arrival Time- 2130 Hours

Ø Vehicle Experience- Super and Easy

Reasons for Delay- Traffic Jams enroute near Manali Tunnel Zone and encountered 10000 Sheep and Goats on inner arterial roads in Naggar area, Manali where we were staying for 3 Nights!!!

DDay-2 30 May 2022- Blaze the Rough (At Manali) 

A leisurely day with the sounds of flowing rivulet and winds whistling through Deodar trees. Nature at its best and oxygen building up the lungs. 

Took a local cab of Prakash, an ever-smiling Pahari, and went around to Old Manali. Visited Manu Temple and took a gentle walk down the Old Manali road, visiting shops and meeting with unknown humans. The book The Millennial Yogi by Deepam Chatterjee is travelling with us and was introduced to many people enroute. A great experience to strike conversations and understand the human feelings. Nothing comes closer.  

Found a master embroider in Mohammad Jilani who is doing my special embroidery for my Blazer and the Pandubbi Wala Peer Logo for the T shirt.   

Aparna as always went in for silver buys and I too (finally) got my Himachali cap!! A light lunch of Momos and Noodle with hot lemon-ginger tea as rain came crashing to lower the temperature. 

The evening was pleasant as all in the property sat together for some exotic singing time. Super songs, great Whiskey and local vegetables as we acclimate for the next leg beginning 01 Jun 2022. 

Day-3 31 May 2022- Blaze the Rough (At Manali) 

Sleeping in a wooden log hut next to a flowing river slowly cutting the rocks is a surreal sound experience. As the head hit the pillow, the snores emerged immediately. The beauty of a snore is that it never troubles the snorer! Awakening again to the river's sound is a sure sign that some karma in life is paying back. Now I know why people use these sounds to calm their minds in the cities where sound pollution and humming machines fill the ears and mind. 

The day was brighter with Sun rising behind the tall mountains and we began a trek to a waterfall. This is a virgin waterfall where tourists have not been able to reach and the You Tubers. There are meanders in the river and at each turn and corner the white surf fills the atmosphere with the most of water. The chilled water is great to touch and even better to drink. We walked up the river through a narrow path with its share of slush, stones, and heights.  

The time spent at the waterfall cannot be summed up in words. We sat on the stones and meditated with the sounds of the water taking multiple dimensions. The sand beach was a testimony that once there stood mighty stones which have simply been worn out by the flow of water! 

After an amazing trek to the waterfall, an accident as Aparna and young Ishan slipped into a 10-foot-deep fall. The Mother Earth gave the cushion even as the thorns opened multiple lacerations for both. Immediate dip into the cold river to numb the pain and we all thanked the Almighty for the small mercies. It could have been a bad day at work. The water therapy helped, and both walked back to the safety of the home.  

Despite the injuries both Aparna and Ishan kept in pace with the other inmates of the home as the evening was a special celebration for a couple celebrating 44 years of togetherness.  

Aparna, the brave Mizo Warrior clan blood holder, did not care for her pains and aches to cook a sumptuous Khao Suey (A Burmese Delicacy) for 17 folks! The dish disappeared in no time as the evening went into a musical extravaganza. Ah! What a reminder of good old days when families would sit around for days during the weddings. 

Laughs galore as the day was lived well and the Grey Fox (Mahindra Thar) was given a wash to be ready for the drive to Jispa on day-4. 

Day-4 & 5 01 & 02 Jun 2022 - Blaze the Rough (Manali-Jispa- Leh) 

The cue for naming this trip Blaze the Rough was its gruel and overcoming our own challenges. I would dedicate this entire trip to my beloved Lady Aparna for having: - 

A) Trust in me and supporting my driving plans. 

B) Wholeheartedly supporting my decision to get the Mahindra Thar and christening it Grey Fox. 

C) Never complaining as I cruise roads untraveled to quench my thirst of meeting humanity.  

D) Creating conversations with absolute strangers and leaving an indelible mark on their lives too. 

E) Never complain about her own aches, pains and fighting stoically against diabetes. 

I can go on and on, but I would round it up with a warm Salute and Hug to her. 

Day -4 from Manali took us through the majestic Atal Tunnel. The cruise was smooth as we enjoyed the serenity as the landscape changed dramatically once we moved across the North gate of the tunnel. We are also travelling the book The Millennial Yogi by Deepam Chatterjee/Fox/75 in this trip and we clicked the book at locations and with strangers. It has been a great experience folks! 

Our Day-4 stop was at Jispa which is about 100 kms from Manali. We drove leisurely, met young bikers from Andhra Pradesh in a roadside cafe where we chatted over the book and some hot pizza. They were elated to pose with the book and notice the happiness on their faces as we swallowed the generational gap. At Jispa Journey Resort, we stayed in a tented accommodation next to the River Bhaga. Surrounded by imposing mountains (some blanketed with snow), we had a bonfire dinner with a large family from Gujarat. The family had accomplished professionals and it was a pleasure to connect with them all. With promises to catch up at Leh, we settled for the night even as temperature dipped to -1°! 

Day-5 brought the *Rough* challenge ahead. This day, we had to push ourselves (and test Mahindra Thar's performance). The off- roader had 2020 kms in its odometer, when I pushed its Petrol Automatic at 6.20 am up a steep climb out of the riverine bed area. The smooth petrol automatic purred quietly as the Fox in her took over. 

We pushed the Thar and set it blazing as the road was a beauty. We crossed settlements and came across to Deepak Tal which is a little pond but with very clear waters. Linking with the family that manages a Dhaba at Deepak Tal, we opened the Parathas carried for breakfast. This is where the fabled Murphy had a good look at us. There was another Delhi family who were also at the Dhaba and trying to get some tea. Water takes time to boil, and we all connected.  

We could not eat the Parathas as they were under- cooked, and tea was more of milk. With some water swallowing all along the way, we pushed for the first of the pass called the Baralacha La. The other driver did not take care of the constant hydration as the body ejects out fluids to manage changing temperature. Mr Murphy knew he stood a chance. We pushed our respective Mahindra’s (Thar and TUV 300) through some breathtaking scenic beauty coupled with good roads and patches of jumps/jerks. The Thar did the track in style as I pushed the gas at stages.  

Crossing Baralacha La, we gunned towards the Nakee La Pass which helps to cross Whisky Nalla. This is where we slipped from Himachal into Ladakh. A check post entry and we cruised along. 

 At Lachung La Pass, I realized that the other driver was feeling the mountain sickness and we guided him to drink water and eject fluids when needed. Murphy had quietly slipped amidst our middle and started taking control of the situation. We still had 280 odd kilometers to go and 2 more high passes which did not promise better air support. We had to be careful and focused to reach our destination which was still 6 hours away. {To be continued}. 

Hold your anxiety as we stepped into an unknown territory and challenges of the *Rough* blazed through us....More soon.

BE HUMAN

The Gazelle was oblivious of the pair of eyes setting an aim through a telescopic vision. The animal stood no chance as it's senses were obscured by the breeze flowing into the direction of the prying eyes. The hunter was confident of his aim and his finger started to curl inwards to muzzle up his well oiled gun. As the fingers curled, his ears sensed dry leaves being crushed under a body weight. His aim shook but the bullet had left from its sitting position and the barrel got heated. The second animal trying to eye the hunter had turned and fled after the bullet got fired. The bullet was on its way to the Gazelle piercing through the blowing wind. The slight error in firing was converted to an angle as atmosphere tried to stop the bullet with its resistance might. 

The distance and angle of fire ensured that the bullet pierced a thick tissue of Gazelle's body and the blood started oozing out. The life remained warm. The peace was shattered and the Gazelle took off in a random direction towards the raging river. The animal was losing its energy due to blood loss and the raging river accepted it as it meandered. The Gazelle was dead as it rocked through the spate of the river. Soon, there was a floating carcass.

Along came a plateau where the river found peace in its flow as if it's anger was now subsided. Two crocodiles, probably siblings, were sunbathing on their respective river banks when their senses spotted the carcass. They slipped into the river and lunged towards the carcass. The river flow helped the stronger one and it grabbed the carcass towards its bank. The loser simply turned back and had no feelings of remorse or a loss. Better luck next time maybe, if the crocodile had thoughts crossing it's mind. It could have also lunged at the carcass but maybe the wild have different ways to tackle conflicts!

The animal kingdom has seen many wiping as multiple species have lost their battles to survive with the Nature's fury to bring changes. The Paleolithic human has had an advantage here. It has withstood the vagaries of human existence for close to 50,000 years now. There have been changes and yet the humans have come out of it keeping their species walking all over the planet's habitable spots. They have been led through these times with both natural and collateral damage adding to woes of survival.

With each passing century, the humans in lead have predicted the arrival of utopian dreams only to be shattered by events. These events arrive unannounced and unleash chaos which a part of humanity uses to thrive and to jump to the next stages of prosperity.

In the Mahabharata days, the raging war was visible to the warriors on ground and to a divinity abled person called Sanjay. Sanjay could see the war proceedings at a great distance and kept his blind King updated even as King's 100 sons fell one after another. The humanity thrived in utter chaos even as valuable lives were wiped off from both the warring sides. 

Today also we are witnessing conflicts and they have assumed multiple dimensions. There is no far sighted Sanjay but yet each second's details are visible across screens that are inseparable from today's even partially urbanized humans. These screens are powerful gadgets that even the unlearned can operate with ease and understand it's display in way that they want to understand. This has led to a brilliant situation- every human now has a view and a viewpoint of own. Stakes can be shifted swiftly and polarizations of all kinds are rampant. Creativity is the key skill that is required in today's stage and age. A creative human mind can weave umpteenth imaginations and also structure true life events duly presented with creative skill. The human life is taking a sharp turn, yet again. The concepts of living the human life are being redrawn as the humans have been exposed to a pandemic which in turn has created a World amongst the four walls and a roof. The bubble is only building further and it's fabric seems far from a burst right now.

Maybe, this is the time as the graph of powers is jolting to change the colors that humans need to introspect and quickly as they now have the powers of smart devices within their hands. A meaningful analysis needs focus and focus alone. Too much information only garbles the mind as humans are same that emerged as a Paleolithic Man! The mind is loaded with plethora of life's challenges and topped up with information of all sorts. Every answer is available at the screen and creative thinking has multiple models. Content is the key and leading to skewed models of success emerging out of nowhere. The beauty of nature however remains, success is not assured to humans. They have to continue to evolve. Maybe, the Gen Next which would emerge from mid of this century would bring about a change which would not be influenced by pointers tilting humanity of today. The couch surfers will fade and so might be their advises. The elapsing time towards the mid century would bring forth new humans as idols, demons and maybe also ideals. This change would be interesting and poor vision humanity would emerge as ability to see at a distance would be severely limited due to weaker eye muscles!! The eye wear would remain a rage and many more startups would bring new models to deck human vision.

So, dear humans, Be Human, take time off these devices. Think independently to live and let live. To err is human and do not let errors creep into lives easily, seek remedy. Do you have it in you, eh! Check and balance, only you can do it my human, only you and no one else. May peace be your companion. Cheers to life and survival.

THE JOURNEY

The journey called life is a challenge for humanity at large. Tranquility, if available, arrives at its own pace and in most cases when life is dangling by its last threads. The sheer load of memories overwhelms the human when the stub is burning with an effort.

The beginning of the journey is a simple process. There are equivalent starts at various levels of human life's accomplishments- small or big as the reading might be. The start depends to an extent upon the pedestal which the previous generation has created. It is from here that the battle lines of life get drawn. The formative years are few and even the strongest advise comes at the softest pace. Agony is lesser and life is simpler. Tabs picked correctly at this stage leads to the fire of life turning amber softly with heat building up at each stage. If humans look back, they would realize that in otherwise exceptional circumstances, they cannot deviate much from the path they themselves charted till the first 18 years of their lives. A continuous zeal, focus and humongous energy is needed to shape away to greater heights or mortal depths from the time basic formative education culminates. There are definitely exceptions to the set pattern and those humans are rare as not everyone can continue to stride against emerging challenges.

What is it that stops the humans to keep looking inwards to match with the outward circumstances? Is it the self-actualization or the lack of fight within the self? To continue with the pattern of emerging circumstances or to swim strongly against the tide is a choice which has to be made- and not once or twice but as often as life swings to its extremes. Pain, joy, hurt, happiness, anger, failure, accomplishments etc. are like tides which keep touching the shores of humanity at their own pace.

There is no known proof that happiness can remain forever even if one has all the sources to obtain it or vice versa!! Chasing own dreams is a better bet than sulking by getting overawed by others lives! Who knows what efforts those humans are putting in to maintain their achieved altitude. The beauty of human life lies in the fact that change is the only constant. This change does give opportunities to redefine, recalibrate, readjust and keep the momentum going. There are no restarts to life, it moves in some direction or the other till humans breathe!!

The journey offers crystal ball gazing ability to humans. Few ever exercise it. If they look inside, they would realize that they remained blindsided as they were gazing at some other humans trying to decode their methods! For what and why? The pattern of behavior is different for each human. So gaze if you must, learn the best from the gaze and re-calibrate to gain at the next stage of life. The next stage of life is nothing else but where one is standing and decides to redefine the meaning of life.

A good book, a motivating movie, an intriguing yet awakening speech are some points where humans receive impulses to change the stage. These try to wean away the attention from gazing at others and concentrate on self. Those who achieve their focus achieve their next life stage. The others remain in contentious battles within themselves and continue to live with their own crafted shackles.

Survival is a science and an art as well. Humans cannot be apes and also cannot devour other humans to gain life long success. Efforts are needed to move ahead. So move and complete the journey- which is yours and yours alone first. Chase away or close towards your dreams, anxiety, pains, hurt, happiness, laughter et al. These are not permanent but the Journey definitely is. The Journey is a combination of short stages. So where are you, eh! Get up, get going, stop chasing others, CHASE YOURSELF and scale your destination.

*Travelogue Himachal Pradesh- 10 Jun 2021 Onwards- Part II- 12 & 13 Jun*

Clouds are nature's amazing creation. They come and go at will duly providing varied experiences to humans. Perched right at top of a hill,  our abode at The Kutir, Naldehra, Mashobra, Shimla overlooks majestic valley with hillocks and hills spanning till the vision travels. The clouds build up and dive into the valleys and then float upwards to The Kutir as if to kiss the cup of hot tea placed on the  railing.

The clouds built up ferociously late in the night and lighting striking over the horizon started travelling towards our tall French windowed room. Khalil Jibran had famously quoted- Let there be spaces in your togetherness and let the winds of heaven dance amongst you. The hills know this the best. They remain rooted to their grounds and the winds gleefully played in the valley's adjoining peaks. They went down and rose up striking the tall trees in their way. They played a ferocious game with the valley and the jungle but not even a single tree gave up! The match was squared even as the Sun decided to close the game and rose up to remove the haze. The morning was fresh and bright announcing the Birthday of Karan Dewan, a young man who was scheduled to take an early morning trek in the pristine hills. He woke up happy to a rising Sun even as Mrs Manju Ahluwalia enjoyed a spray of rain falling on her pretty face and did not shut the windows of her majestic Scandinavian bungalow perched inside the hills. She is the de-facto Commandant of the Mashobra hills having seen them for close to 07 decades now.

The winds, storm, rain and sunshine all culminated in a lovely evening with an amazing ex- National Defence Academy (NDA) group of venerable Seniors from 26th (Kilo) General Manjit Ahluwalia; 38th (Foxtrot) Flt Lieutenant Sanjiv Dewan & 39th (Foxtrot) Maj General Anand Kapur and their magnificent families. We were welcomed with open hearts and assimilation was quick. Quickly we realized that the hills have great humanity. A phenomenal connect and we were all overjoyed to share the laughter in these tough times. Plenty of tales and trails hooked us on to the Mashobra Hills and quiet Leopards who silently roam these green hills.

Another rain soaked morning welcomed us today. The little storm accorded me the privilege to keep lying in the bed at The Kutir and chase the clouds flying past the giant windows. It seemed as if they were waiting to smoke my tea cup but I was in no hurry and hoodwinked them from the coziness of my quilt. 

Around 12 pm, we set off for an exhilarating drive to Tattapani where hot water springs come out even as mighty River Satluj winds its way through the town. This town announces the boundary of District Mandi. I entered inside the hot water pool of a hotel Hot Springs situated on the banks of Sutlej. It was an exotic bath and I was the solitary guest inside the pool. Felt quite like a royalty even as my body soaked the heat from Sulphur water.

We drove back and stopped at a roadside restaurant for a light lunch. Driving back to The Kutir and my thoughts were with the green hills and sights that ticked my imagination. We were soaked in the clean air and our lungs filled up again. Happiness prevailed all over and we also witnessed the setting up of a deity in a Sutlej riverside temple.

The hills of Himachal have a magnetic attraction. They are clean and green. They are ever willing to welcome tourists who must come with a pledge to keep the hills safe. We  witnessed first hand locals following all safety protocols and absolute lockdown post 2 pm each day. Kudos to the administration and the locals alike. These steps and all Government promulgated protocols including vaccination would definitely help

Looking forward to a great working week ahead from Mashobra Hills and beyond.

TRAVELOGUE HIMACHAL- 10 JUN 2021 ONWARDS- PART-1

The pandemic numbers started weaning at New Delhi and the urge to climb to higher abode again kicked inside us. The run to the hills ensures closeness to the nature's oxygen tanks. The mere thought of filling up the lungs acted as an alarm to wake me up at 0330 hours of 10 Jun. I wanted to burn the rubber early and reach the destination well within day light. Winding up the house, securing plants and fish for the long holiday kept pushing the time. Finally at 0600 hours we were all loaded and set the pace for Shimla and beyond.

The road blockades around Delhi merits circumventing around and this meant an extra 100 kms into the journey. The first 3 hours of a long drive are crucial to gain the best distance. The drive was fast and *Green Mamba* clocked speed with ease. Renault Duster is a sturdy car at speeds more than 100 kmph and grips well on the tar. I tested it up to 140 kmph and there was no hard feeling as the engine ran silently. The car has not been serviced since Sep 2019 as it has clocked less miles but held good. 

We missed our first pit stop at Neelkanth, Karnal and the smooth traffic flow meant that we surged ahead to find a decent pit stop at one of many Mannat Havelis. A quick and light breakfast with tea leaves in Milk shaped us towards Chandigarh.

A venerable senior from the Foxtrot Squadron, NDA was cruising ahead of us and recommended a stop at *Nik Bakers* at *Dera Bassi*. This was worth the stop but we again found milk ruling the coffee !! We are too hooked to the *Masala Teas* and *Less Froth Cappuccinos*. Welcome to the milk rich Haryana and Punjab .

474 kilometers later, we checked into a flat which we have hired at Naldehra, Shimla for the sojourn and to go around the area's villages. The valley is simply superb and weather very pleasant. The evening fell across the vast expanse of hills and hills only to be ruled by scattered lights which seems to put stars on Earth. There are beautifully colored houses spread over the hills and winding roads pass through high trees visible from our perch up in the hills.

We set up the home in this new place and the *Green Mamba* began its rest calming it's heated engine.

Pristine is the exact word for where we have reached this time though the construction has sheared a part and hallowed the untouched status.

We are looking forward to gulping some rare fresh oxygen, local fruits and meeting with some great local people including settlers. This is the first time that we are also trying a *VLOG* and would share the link once the movie is ready 🥰🏽.

Have a great time folks, be safe, *Wear Masks* (we wore all through the drive), *Wash Hands* and *Maintain Social Distance*.

TAMIL MARRIAGE IN MANIPUR- PART 2

The epitaphs for humans are written once they have left the planet Earth. Many stitch careful imaginations into realities thus etching a place for them in the history. Every time that I come to Indo- Myanmar town named Moreh in Manipur, I think about all those early settlers and visitors who stepped here. What must have been going in their minds when they took the hilly roads in vehicles that moved at snail's speed. The last post of India and settling down to carve out a life here must have been a task in itself. Generations after generations have grown here, lived here and adapted to ever changing political-economic scenarios. Strife, moving demographics and ever evolving trade have been the only constants apart from the bumps of roads dusty at many places.

Hearing a person who has left the town decades ago and now returned to partake in festivities is an experience. Their eyes swell as they recall days of the yore and acknowledge that however tough, the life was good in this small town. Their reminiscences kindle imaginations of the land, its people and who all traversed its lanes. The tony guitarist strums his strings and belts out a number in the name of God. His voice rips through the playful sounds of young children, even as the dogs of adjacent homes dare each other. The miniature sparrows with blue beaks come flying by to take short breaks on the tall Christmas Tree in the backyard. The Sun is setting and the badminton players illuminate their arena to begin the game stretching into late night hours. The body clocks are settled well now that the continuous supply of electricity and mobile data has penetrated the region.

The visit to the town was also to see the recently opened cafe by my extended family. It is called Love Byte Cake & Cafe. Do not forget to note the spelling of *Byte*, an important one in today's data hungry World! The efforts of my energetic Sister-in-Law and her 3 young children are bearing fruits. She makes delicacies which were far from this mofussil town trying to emerge out of a Kasbah. Her cakes, pastries, pizzas, burgers, shakes and Burmese delicacies are well sought in the town and lit up the wedding festivities. The 4 layered tall cake was a hit as it just disappeared after the groom cut it with his bride. The arena is changing at some pace here. Innovative creations find connoisseurs in every part of the World.

Children have started going to school. I ask them why no masks and the reply is no one wears them! Someone has to wear first and each one looks at the other one!! The lip balms hold priority over masks is the conclusion!! 

I set off early morning of 14 Mar 2021 to fall back to Imphal via Asian Highway-1. The road is coming up well and I am hopeful that next visit would be a faster drive. Crossing the posts of various CAPF forces is a pleasure in itself with quick tea meetings with the Sentinels of the North-East. The young and dynamic Officers fill my chest with pride as I reminisce about my days in Uniform. Welcoming a Veteran gives utmost satisfaction to both the serving and the retired. The legacy is definitely in safe hands.

The time to the Airport check-in gets closer but not before a great friend now settled in Imphal comes to meet me at the Airport with his entire family. Ayam knows me over our multiple phone conversations but we have never met in person. He makes a big impression on my heart by coming with his family for those short 5 minutes. These are valuable human jewel moments. I do not click a photo even as my heart wants one because I want to honor him at his home and take the coveted snap. What a surreal experience and I am happy to see the happy family safely settled in Imphal even as the dastardly pandemic continues to sweep through the World. There are 3 wonderful families who left Delhi even as if they foresaw the pandemic and fell back to Manipur to be with their roots. What an amazing grace of God and I saw smiling faces.

As I hug my near and dear ones, a lump build up in my heart but I am again rejuvenated to scale ahead. Maybe there is more of my life to come back again and again to spend time with wonderful folks who still give you unconditional attention and care. 

The Airport Team at Imphal is quick and swiftly clears the volume of passengers as three flights are ready for take off. I see some familiar faces at the Airport and yet another conversation begins. A gentle conversation is the best elixir for humans.

We are cruising at 30,000 feet plus in an Airbus even as I write this travelogue piece. Somehow, this height is perfect fit as outside temperatures plummet to minus while inside it is a comfortable 25 degrees. 

My luggage carries delicacies from Manipur. Dry fish as gift from an Uncle and various kinds of raw material from my Brother-in-Law would definitely cheer my best half back at home. The lip smacking taste is definitely going to continue for some months till we replenish.

When my epitaph is written, amazing Moreh would definitely find its place. After all, Moreh does mean resting place!